I need a binding

For this table runner, 

Which looks pretty good with the irises, 

Maybe a dark gray like on the vase, 

I was trying out the new Quilt Curve Ruler, which worked pretty well.  So well that I've started another project with it!  

Variation on a bucket bag

One of the basic bag shapes is a bucket bag, where a cylinder is sewn to a shaped base.  This is a photo from the book by Yoko Saito called, New Classic Patch Work

One of the bags I love in it is called the Tailgate tote,

It uses this really cute little block,

The tall, tapered shape appealed to me, but I wasn't in the mood to do all of the piecing of the little blocks.  Instead I pieced a very simple stack of rectangles, laid them on the background fabric, and covered the raw edges with ribbon.

The sewing was pretty straightforward

I used Annie's soft n Stable for the batting,

Had some fun with a combination of straight line and free motion quilting in a wood grain pattern,

The handles started as rectangular fabric covered soft n stable, with the middle area rolled over and stitched to make that part more ciylindrical

The side seams are covered in an integrated seam binding, but the seams at the base are just zig-zagged.  I suppose I could have slip stitched on another circle of fabric to cover them, but....

I'm happy to report that I have already used it as a take along knitting project bag!   

I still like the shape a lot, so perhaps I will do a peiced taupe version at some point!, maybe varying the size a bit,
I'm starting to wonder where to put all the bags that I've been sewing lately.  Any good ideas for bag organization and storage?

Hoop art embroidery

Tula pink, Crop Marks quilt

Who doesn't love magazines.... Even with all the wonderful reading that is available online, I still love a good hard copy of a magazine.  Although I don't subscribe to any one magazine, I have a lot of fun browsing them at  bookstores and drugstores,

One copy that recently came home with me was this Stitch magazine,

Inside, I was delighted to find this pattern by Tula Pink, called Crop Marks.  I like the way it looks, although I have to admit, I'm not sure how the name was derived.  It uses fabrics from her collection Fox Field,

What magazines do you find yourself reading? 

Vertical Strip Setting

This is another sampler setting to use with 12" finished blocks.  Feel free to print off a copy if you want to use it.  Remember there is a Print Friendly Button you can click on to get a printable copy of just the content.

Vertical Strip Set

Size: 82" x 105"

uses 18 sampler blocks that finish at 12 inches
(they would measure 12-1/2" with the seam allowance)

a Periwinkle Pattern by Michelle Harris












Yardage:

1.5m for Sashing  — for the strips between the blocks,
             Cut 7 strips, 1-1/2" x the wof,* (width of the fabric)
             then sub-cut them into 21 rectangles that measure 1-1/2" x 12-1/2"

              -----the vertical strips between the blocks which finishes at 5"
             Cut 8 strips, 5-1/2" x the wof, then sew them into pairs.  From these long strips,
             you will need 4 rectangles that measure 79-1/2" **

 .6m for Borders I and III, that finish at 1inch. 
            Cut 13 strips, 1-1/2" x the wof

.8m for Border II, finishes at 3"
            Cut 7 strips, 3-1/2" x the wof

2m for Border IV, finishes at 7-1/2"
            Cut 9 strips, 8" x the wof
.7m for the binding,
        Cut 10 strips, 2-1/2" x the wof

**Fudge Factor: If you make the top and bottom sashing rectangle a bit wider such as 2-1/2" x 12-1/2", you will have some extra fabric to help make the units the same length.  You can trim the three columns to all measure the same length, and cut the vertical sashing units and the borders accordingly.

Sewing the quilt:

Make 3 vertical units, each will use 6 sampler blocks and 7 sashing strips. 
Sew them together with the 5-1/2" wide sashing strips to make the body of the quilt. 


Add the borders, in this fashion:
Measure the body of the quilt from top to bottom through the center of the unit. 
Cut your side borders to this length, pin them to the sides, and sew them on.  Press seams outward. 

Measure the quilt from side to side, across the center area.  Cut your top and bottom borders to this measurement and pin them to the top and bottom edges of the unit.  Sew them on and press the seams outward. 

After all your borders have been added, you are ready to layer the quilt top with the batting and backing, baste, and quilt it.

Binding: after the quilt has been quilted, trim the excess batting and backing from the edges. 
Sew the binding strips end to end with  45°diagonal seams to make one long strip.  Cut the excess fabric from the joins and press the binding strip in half lengthwise with the right sides facing outwars. 


Sew the raw edges of the binding to the edges of the quilt using 1/4" seams.  Start adding it partway along one edge. 

When you get to a corner, stop 1/4" from the end and backstitch, Remove the quilt from under the presser foot and fold the binding into a mitered corner ( fold the binding straight up, and then down along the next edge of the quilt, holding the corner into the pleat while you start the seam. 

When you have gone all around the quilt, join the ends of the binding.  Fold the binding around the edge of the quilt to the back and hand stitch it into place, folding each corner into a miter as you go,
 When you have gone all around the quilt, join the ends of the binding.  Fold the binding around the edge of the quilt to the back and hand stitch it into place, folding each corner into a miter as you go, 

Enjoy your quilt!